You Are Now Entering Free Dheisheh

Arrived in Bethlehem yesterday. We stayed the night in a guest house in a cultural centre in Dheisheh refugee camp just outside Bethlehem. The refugee camp was established in 1949, made up of people who fled in the Naqba. They've been there ever since. It started out as tent city but now it looks a little bit like Maryland to be honest. Only different. There's impressive graffiti on the walls, all talking about peace and freedom, or kids drawing colourful scenes and patterns. At the entrance there's a notice in block capitals 'YOU ARE NOW ENTERING FREE DHEISHEH' - a clear nod to Free Derry.
The people seriously impressed me with their general friendliness, how organised they are (the cultural centre runs sports teams that have won numerous awards, and loads of othe projects- hard enough to organise in the best of circumstances). Everyone here has got manners, basically.

We went to the Church of the Nativity in Manger Sq in Bethlehem. Walking back, we could see that the sounds we'd heard in Jerusalem were gunfire- we could see the flashes from a settlement across the valley.

We met this bloke, a shopkeeper, who when we told him we were from London got really pleased cos he has a brother living in Cricklewood. He invited us in and made us mint tea, and we discussed politics. He's a fan of George Galloway. He wants peace, like everyone does really. He says they should tear down the wall, let Israeli kids and Palestinian kids play together, that's the best hope. We had a really interesting conversation. He also has a mate from the UK who's working with MAN news over here, and she showed up too.

Headed back to the refugee camp, passing the wall. Close up it's a truly ugly and sickening structure.

I was violently ill in the night but I'm ok now, topping up on Sprite (it's pretty much impossible to boycott Coke here, it's basically all they sell, which is ironic). Also, I am out of credit and cannot reply to texts. Gonna attempt to rectify this situation asap, but if you text me and I don't reply it's probly not cos I'm dead.

We're heading to Bilin now, via Ramallah.

Thanks for the Eastenders updates people, keep em coming. Can't believe he had her in the cellar next door, how insane is that. How did he get her back there for one thing. Someone would have probably noticed. Also how much did it look just like the cellar in the Vic- clearly budget use of the same set.


loads of love


-L
xxx



Dheisheh camp is awful and inspiring all at the same time. For the first few seconds it's easy to get overwhelmed by the poverty, before you realise that this isn't how it's always been. One glance up into the surrounding hillsides and the massive illegal Israeli settlements reminds you that this is imposed destitution- suppression of the ugliest and most violent kind.
The wall has killed a lot of business in Bethlehem. You get coach loads of Christian tourists coming in for the day but they don't stay, they look at the religious stuff and then get bussed right out again. The wall is everywhere on the landscape, up close it is even scarier- sniper towers and razor wire. Having said that the artwork on the Palestinian side provides a glimpse at the determination and the strength of the Palestinian spirit. Gunfire from the settlement accross the valley last night. Happens with such regularity that people barely seem to notice it.
Had mint tea with one of the shopkeepers last night. Talked politics for hours- Hamas, Fatah, the role of the West and the chances of a lasting peace. Amazing guy. (Zoe and Dele- he has a brother living in Cricklewood, probably one of your neighbours!) His neighbour is British. She came down to the shop and somehow I managed to end up mouthing off about the Quilliam Foundation, until she said that she knew Ed Hussain- bit random!
Got woken up this morning by the loudest call to prayer I've ever heard. Was beautiful, but L was ill so don't think it helped her too much. I was of course a tower of strength during her illness and slept right through. She's a medical student though so she's got it all under control!
Today we're off to Bil'in via Ramallah. Plan is to spend 2 nights in Bil'in and be there for the weekly demo against the apartheid wall on Friday. Keep getting flashbacks to Strasbourg and the teargas there (Chris- "Hold the line!! HOLD THE LINE!!!). Hopefully the IDF will be in good spirits and go easy, but not likely. Still, the presence of Westerners reduces the likelihood of them shooting to kill the Palestinian activists and villagers.
Counterfire people- hope the meeting went well, sorry to have missed it!
Rosie- you are a fool. Peter managed to write on the blog under "anonymous". Though it doesn't matter, I'll still check my Facebook every now and then. Your message made me laugh. Such an idiot.
Dad and Moot- enjoy your time in the library. Maybe this will teach you to GET YOUR OWN COMPUTER! xxx

Lots of love
F
xxxxxxx