Saturday 31 July 2010

Jenin

We have arrived in Jenin. It is soooo hot here. We are both pretty tired. F got ill this morning, possibly with the same thing I had, though she has eaten this evening so we shall see.

We're staying in a room in a community centre. The centre seems pretty amazing, they are running loads of different projects, including a bakery. They're gonna show us around over the next two or three days.

I'm really hot and tired, so I'm not gonna write much. Love to all. Hope m and d are having a good time. Mum, I'll sort the bank out when I get home, I have no idea how to reverse charge a call from here. Pete, don't trash the place. Ann, thanks for your comment, you made me smile.


L
xxx



Arrived in Jenin and it was like stepping into an oven- so much hotter than Jerusalem and Ramallah. Apparently this is the hottest summer they have ever had.

The journey through the West Bank from Ramallah to Jenin was beautiful, although the huge settlements and miles of settler-only roads are destroying the landscape. They are built with the intention of taking Palestinian land and/or geographically and economically isolating Palestinian villages. In the process they destroy farmland, block off water supplies and devastate the environment.

Yousef and his colleagues at the Jenin Creative Cultural Centre have kindly let us sleep in the centre at night. Will provide more info about the work of the Centre and the related projects over the next few days as we get settled in and learn more. Is definitely an amazing place though. There are plenty of opportunities for people to come out here and stay long-term and volunteer at the Centre, when we get back to the UK we can pass on info to anyone who is interested.


Was a bit ill but am completely fine now. Very tired so will leave it there for tonight. Hope everyone is well. Rosie- thanks for the message, parents behaviour sounds standard so all is good!

Lots of love
xxxxxxxxxx

Friday 30 July 2010

Bil'in

We arrived in Bil'in last night for the demo today. We got put up in basic activist crash space- think staying at LARC or similar. We were staying in a room on the ground floor of a communal building, which the people who organise the weekly demos and campaigns live in. In Jerusalem, we were staying opposite an Israeli police station. In Bethlehem we could see a UN truck from our window. Here it was just garden outside, but the (steel) door wouldn't shut cos it had a massive dent in it where the IDF had busted through the week before.

We were a bit concerned that a similar thing might happen again. We lay there having the old gunshots/fireworks discussion (F says definitely fireworks this time), and I think F fell asleep and woke up occasionally to any loud noise and worried it was soldiers. I didn't sleep cos I had this 2 little bastard mosquitos biting me ALL NIGHT long, and doing that psychological warfare shit where they buzz in your ear. They totally took my mind off the IDF. I don't think F really treated the situation with the gravity it deserved, though she did wake up at one point thanks to my constant swearing and offered me insect repellant. It didn't work. I got bitten on lips, eyebrows, all over. I keep pointing out the more presentable marks to her but she's not overly impressed. By comparison, she got bitten once, the whole night.

Anyway. If you don't know about Bil'in, it's an agricultural village in the West Bank. The wall runs close to it and is annexing land off for illegal settlements (illegal under both international and Israeli law). They stand to lose 60% of their land. http://www.bilin-village.org/english/
Every Friday they have a peaceful demo, basically the aim is just to march up to the wall and protest for a bit. Internationals are invited to join the demo. Today, there were probably about 100-200 internationals, plus a few Israeli activists from Anarchists Against the Wall (not sure if that would technically count as international...). Plus the men and boys from the village, obviously (though not many of the women). Most weeks it ends with the demonstrators getting tear gassed, sometimes water cannon and rubber bullets.

I have to say the march was amazing. I was pretty overwhelmed by the genuine positivity, sound system, dancing etc. It's a story you see in the UK hundreds of times, something built on positive ideals of peace and tolerance being crushed. But here the situation is so much more desperate and the love has to be so much bigger. And it's really depressing knowing that in all likelihood it won't make a bit of difference to the Israeli govt, or the soldiers. The wall will be built just the same.
Anyway we did end up getting tear gassed. The thing that I was most bricking it about was hypothetical. Basically the possibility of getting brained by a tear gas canister. That didn't happen to anyone, though someone from the village did get killed on this demo in April 2009. Most of you probably know why that fact might particularly disturb me.
We didn't get too close to the gas, thanks to a lot of running, but even from about 75m away in the open air it feels like a mini asthma attack. Not nice. And I can't see why you would attack a peaceful demo like that other than out of vindictiveness. I mean what would have happened? If they'd chanted at the wall for a bit?

Headed from there into Ramallah for the night. To a Londoner like me, the centre of Ramallah feels like a home from home, except people smile at you as you walk by.

Thanks for all the well wishes people. My bowels are still a bit dodgy. Still not eating anything yet.

Thanks for the Eastenders updates! How did Hev misunderstand Patrick? How is Libby doing, managing to convey looking happy and sad at the same time? That must be a challenge for her.

Main thing- Happy Birthday, Dad!




L
xxx



Thursday night in Bil'in was pretty scary. We slept in a room in which the metal door wouldn't lock because the previous week the IDF had broken in and dragged off some of the main local organisers. They are still in prison.
The demo was inspiring. A group of around 300 people (international activists, locals, Israeli peace activists...) marched through the village and towards the wall. Sound system, flags, music, dancing and so much positivity. Every week the villagers aim to march up to the wall (both the UN and the EU admit it has been constructed illegally and it cuts off a lot of Bil'in's farmland and is destroying their very existence). Israel has declared the space in front of the wall a "military zone" and as we approached it we were faced with lines of IDF soldiers. They let us protest for a while before the inevitable happened and the tear gas came out. We stayed a way back- this wasn't like Strasbourg, they actually fire the cannisters at you rather than up in the air like they do in Europe. The young guys from the village got it the worst. Yet amazingly, the villagers do this every week. Every week they peacefully assert their right to protest against the confiscation of their land and the destruction of their livelihoods and every week they get shot at.
There were also a few friendly faces from London at the demo- was good to see them.
We're now in Ramallah and will be heading North to Jenin tomorrow morning. We plan to stay there for maybe 4 nights and then try to go over to Gaza (though that is not looking very likely right now. Inshallah we'll get there but our chances don't look good).

Anyway, I hope you are all well.
Parents- please try not to worry, we really are fine. We have it so easy and have only experienced a tiny bit of the suffering that people here endure every day. And if you can't not worry then maybe you should question how you raised me- demos from a young age... Nah, love you guys. Oh and Rosie- saw a "Quick Step" lorry the other day. Started humming the Tour theme tune in my head... Keep commenting- your posts are cracking us both up.


Lots of love
xxxxxxxxxxxx

Thursday 29 July 2010

You Are Now Entering Free Dheisheh

Arrived in Bethlehem yesterday. We stayed the night in a guest house in a cultural centre in Dheisheh refugee camp just outside Bethlehem. The refugee camp was established in 1949, made up of people who fled in the Naqba. They've been there ever since. It started out as tent city but now it looks a little bit like Maryland to be honest. Only different. There's impressive graffiti on the walls, all talking about peace and freedom, or kids drawing colourful scenes and patterns. At the entrance there's a notice in block capitals 'YOU ARE NOW ENTERING FREE DHEISHEH' - a clear nod to Free Derry.
The people seriously impressed me with their general friendliness, how organised they are (the cultural centre runs sports teams that have won numerous awards, and loads of othe projects- hard enough to organise in the best of circumstances). Everyone here has got manners, basically.

We went to the Church of the Nativity in Manger Sq in Bethlehem. Walking back, we could see that the sounds we'd heard in Jerusalem were gunfire- we could see the flashes from a settlement across the valley.

We met this bloke, a shopkeeper, who when we told him we were from London got really pleased cos he has a brother living in Cricklewood. He invited us in and made us mint tea, and we discussed politics. He's a fan of George Galloway. He wants peace, like everyone does really. He says they should tear down the wall, let Israeli kids and Palestinian kids play together, that's the best hope. We had a really interesting conversation. He also has a mate from the UK who's working with MAN news over here, and she showed up too.

Headed back to the refugee camp, passing the wall. Close up it's a truly ugly and sickening structure.

I was violently ill in the night but I'm ok now, topping up on Sprite (it's pretty much impossible to boycott Coke here, it's basically all they sell, which is ironic). Also, I am out of credit and cannot reply to texts. Gonna attempt to rectify this situation asap, but if you text me and I don't reply it's probly not cos I'm dead.

We're heading to Bilin now, via Ramallah.

Thanks for the Eastenders updates people, keep em coming. Can't believe he had her in the cellar next door, how insane is that. How did he get her back there for one thing. Someone would have probably noticed. Also how much did it look just like the cellar in the Vic- clearly budget use of the same set.


loads of love


-L
xxx



Dheisheh camp is awful and inspiring all at the same time. For the first few seconds it's easy to get overwhelmed by the poverty, before you realise that this isn't how it's always been. One glance up into the surrounding hillsides and the massive illegal Israeli settlements reminds you that this is imposed destitution- suppression of the ugliest and most violent kind.
The wall has killed a lot of business in Bethlehem. You get coach loads of Christian tourists coming in for the day but they don't stay, they look at the religious stuff and then get bussed right out again. The wall is everywhere on the landscape, up close it is even scarier- sniper towers and razor wire. Having said that the artwork on the Palestinian side provides a glimpse at the determination and the strength of the Palestinian spirit. Gunfire from the settlement accross the valley last night. Happens with such regularity that people barely seem to notice it.
Had mint tea with one of the shopkeepers last night. Talked politics for hours- Hamas, Fatah, the role of the West and the chances of a lasting peace. Amazing guy. (Zoe and Dele- he has a brother living in Cricklewood, probably one of your neighbours!) His neighbour is British. She came down to the shop and somehow I managed to end up mouthing off about the Quilliam Foundation, until she said that she knew Ed Hussain- bit random!
Got woken up this morning by the loudest call to prayer I've ever heard. Was beautiful, but L was ill so don't think it helped her too much. I was of course a tower of strength during her illness and slept right through. She's a medical student though so she's got it all under control!
Today we're off to Bil'in via Ramallah. Plan is to spend 2 nights in Bil'in and be there for the weekly demo against the apartheid wall on Friday. Keep getting flashbacks to Strasbourg and the teargas there (Chris- "Hold the line!! HOLD THE LINE!!!). Hopefully the IDF will be in good spirits and go easy, but not likely. Still, the presence of Westerners reduces the likelihood of them shooting to kill the Palestinian activists and villagers.
Counterfire people- hope the meeting went well, sorry to have missed it!
Rosie- you are a fool. Peter managed to write on the blog under "anonymous". Though it doesn't matter, I'll still check my Facebook every now and then. Your message made me laugh. Such an idiot.
Dad and Moot- enjoy your time in the library. Maybe this will teach you to GET YOUR OWN COMPUTER! xxx

Lots of love
F
xxxxxxx

Monday 26 July 2010

more Jerusalem

We're in Jerusalem for one more day and night, then we're heading to Bethlehem in the West Bank, then to Bilin, maybe Ramallah/Nablus and on to Jenin.
Personally I feel much safer here in East Jerusalem than in East London. The people just seem way more relaxed and friendly, there's less aggro, and it just seems impossible to imagine any of these guys jacking you for your phone, much less "what you looking at". The soldiers are the exception of course, they look really out of place stood around with guns in a busy market... every so often you hear what sounds like gunfire coming from the hills behind Damascus Gate, but no one reacts. So we reckon it's probably just military training, or maybe fireworks?!.

Last night as we were walking back to our hotel after a falafel dinner (the food here is vegan heaven) we heard someone calling F's name. Turned out to be someone she knows from London, out here with ISM. If you dn't know F, she's the kind of person who does know an activist in every city in the world. It was a bit weird though. In my view, along with sectarianism, that's probably the main problem with the revolutionary left in London- at any one time 50% of us will be in Palestine. Makes it very difficult to get much done.

On a serious note, could people please please comment and keep us updated on what's going on in Eastenders. Especially let me know if Amira comes back, or Lucas gets caught. Basically just everything, keep me posted. Ta.

Loads of love



-L
xxx



Al Aqsa Mosque and Dome of the Rock were really beautiful. Pretty overwhelming. Access to the compound is made really difficult by the Israelis however- had to go to the corner of the Wailing Wall and then through metal detectors and past various IDF soldiers to get in.

Headed up in to the hills around Jerusalem. Massive expanses of cemetries, few pretty churches and some Minarets. L was set on visiting the Garden of Gethsemane- couldn't find it so spent hours walking all over the Mount of Olives- tiring in the heat but definitely worth it.

Throughout the hill walk and at random moments in East Jerusalem you come across empty plots of land/expanses of rubble. House demolitions are clearly quite frequent.
Hilltops of Jerusalem are surrounded by settlements, each with massive Israeli flags perched on the highest rooftop. Land-grabbing here looks every bit as desperate and unnatural as I imagined. Have yet to see a Palestinian flag- am guessing will have to wait till West Bank for that. East Jerusalem is almost totally controlled by the Israeli state. Palestinians here are really happy if you refer to your trip as "visiting Palestine"- most tourists come for a taste of the Old City and then retreat to the predominatley Jewish Israeli areas.

Bethlehem in the West Bank tomorrow- looking forward to being on Palestinian-controlled land.

Rosie- you can comment on the blog now, we changed the settings. Keep it clean though- family/employers etc are reading this! Keep updating the parents. Oh and I knew Cav would do it!

Lots of love xxxxxxxx

East Jerusalem

Arrived in Tel Aviv yesterday. Arrivals was a piece of piss, they pretty much just waved us through after a few cursory questions- probably helped massively by F's very Jewish profile.
We are staying in a b n b in East Jerusalem. It's got a touch of the Fawlty Towers about it, and it's pretty much empty apart from us- being East Jerusalem and that. This city is amazing. Pretty much just doing the tourist thing at the moment, but we're going to head to West Bank on Wednesday- first stop Bethlehem, then Abu Dis, then on from there.

I'm seriously at risk of developing Jerusalem syndrome- just seen the garden where Jesus was supposedly buried, and the place of calvary and that. I had a religious upbringing, so actually seeing all these places is like being in Narnia or something. Hopefully the commies in Abu Dis will snap me out of it.


-L





Literally 2 questions for me in Ben Gurion airport, really polite and wished me a pleasant trip. More fool them... But yeah, the Jewish heritage is a gift.

Jerusalem is amazing. Al Aqsa this afternoon. L's worried I'm gonna convert, but then again she has, on more than one occassion, expressed a desire to go "sing some hymns"...

Plan is loose but roughly- Bethlehem on Wednesday (will prob keep L on some form of sedative), then on to Abu Dis, Ramallah, Bil'in, Jenin, then over to Gaza.

Not sure how frequent communication will be once we leave Jerusalem...

Stop the War people- good luck with the rally tonight, sounds like it's all kicked off!


Lots of love xxxxxxxx